There is an allure to bespoke tailoring that is subtle, rich and inviting. The knowledge you are getting the best in quality, comfort and style is a source of satisfaction that stems from the experience of building a high caliber suit. The suit you walk away with is immensely rewarding since it encompasses world-class tailoring, history and your own personal creativity infused in one garment.
The history behind bespoke adds a richness to the experience. David Gandy is a great example of British tailoring every single time. You are able to feel the depth of tradition that dates back to over a century when England was the center of the world and the term bespoke suit was in its infancy. This was a time when royalty broke their traditional attire to engage in the same tailoring that has lent its expertise to define the epitome of men’s fashion. When you choose bespoke, you are choosing a style that has culture and a deep tradition for upholding the highest standards in appearance and class.
When you walk into a bespoke tailor shop you are being sized up and measured before you have a chance to make your introduction. Behind the eyes of a bespoke tailor are thousands of suits inexperience that force the instinct of identifying adjustments that complement and enhance your features. This is a skill a master tailor uses to create one of the best suits you will ever wear.
Finding the right chemistry with a tailor isn’t as important as making sure you identify the style of suit that the tailor produces. American, Italian and British are three styles of suit that you should be aware of to make sure that your suit is designed the way that you are most comfortable wearing.
American Style
The American style of suit is a looser fitting ensemble that a heavier set man would benefit from due to the way the suit drapes to flatter the body. Italian cut is the closest form-fitting of all three and is ideal for a thinner, shorter body type. The British cut lies somewhere in between the two with a tapered waist and the shoulders built which indicates military influence.
Whichever style you select, keep in mind that a bespoke suit offers as many different options as the human mind can come up with. There is no limit to how much you customize your design. No matter how eccentric or how conservative you envision your suit-every detail is possible.
When designing your first bespoke suit, it is recommended to choose neutral colours and tones for more flexibility in where you can wear your suit. Greys and navy blues are the most popular and versatile. Choose tones that will flatter your skin tone.
The first and foremost greatest advantage of making a bespoke suit is the comfort it provides its owner. There are definitely tailors who may have butchered a suit or two to contradict this belief but a bespoke suit holds the highest level of comfort compared to that of any other formal wear. The process by which the suit is designed is the main reason the garment is so highly regarded in form, fit and comfort. There are multiple phases of construction in which at each step of the way a fitting takes place to ensure no details are left out in creating the perfect fit.
Suit Choice
When you have decided on the design of your suit, the tailor will record a list of measurements. The measurements are unlike any other for a suit because they provide a three-dimensional blueprint. The patterns and components are designed and made from scratch.
The process intensifies when you are called in for your first fitting. The suit will appear as if it has been through a surgery, with white basting thread being the only thing holding it together. The tailor will adjust the core of the garment to allow a wider range of movement. The suit will be adjusted for both standing and seated positions. Your tailor will make the changes necessary to keep the shape of the suit consistent with each and every turn, bend and pose while maintaining the same level of comfort.
The fittings that follow are fashioned in a similar way in regards to maintaining the closeness of fit and comfort. Each stage of construction will require you to return to the shop to make the necessary adjustments that could only be possible with your body in the suit. There are typically four to five fittings over the course of eight to twelve weeks.
A bespoke suit is a commitment to the highest level of quality and comfort that formal wear provides. Building a garment that is entirely dedicated to enhancing your look while feeling fantastically comfortable is a rewarding experience that is like no other.
