There was a real sense of political content in the air when the lights went on at Matthew Miller’s show on the third and last day of London Collections: Men. Before we saw any of the clothes, we listened to a monologue coming out of the speakers. The short piece, an intro into the song to follow, dealt with ideas such as vulnerability, flattery and exposure. With rapt attention, we waited for the models to step on the runway.
And we were not disappointed. The mostly long-haired young men wore everything from tight pants and shorts to loose-fitting jackets in creamy beige, white, grey and a little black. The collection was quiet but not without a direction. Some of the pieces reminded us of a more ‘street’ version of Acne (which we are glad has finally come into existence!). We loved the shiny jackets with big pockets worn over hoodies. Some of the latter featured prints reminiscent of industrial labels, reading ‘UNITITLED; MIXED MEDIA; DIMENSIONS VARIABLE’ – something also painted onto two of the models’ naked torsos.
Another wow-factor of the show were the three girls wearing pieces that looked awfully similar to what the boys were wearing. Gender was definitely one of the main themes behind Matthew Miller spring / summer 2014. Another one might have been innocence judging from the almost suspicious amount of white fabrics especially at the beginning of the show. In the white rooms of Victoria House, we felt a bit like in a clinic where the models act as doctors, nurses and (perhaps) angels alike, their long hair see-sawing with the beat of the hard music and the speed of their own walk.
Matthew Miller has certainly given us something to think about. There were many statements in his show. One of them was fairly easy to read: This label is here to stay!